Starting from the very bottom of the route, move up the slab to reach the first horizontal crack where you can place a Friend 2 and a big nut. Move up to the second horizontal crack where you can place a Friend 2 left and a Friend 2½ right to protect the crux. Move your left foot up into the crack and dyno to the rock-flag sticking out from the route on the right (Sail Chimney) with your left hand. Move left and stick your bottom behind the flag. Move straight up to finish on easier ground.

Crag: Birchen Edge (Peak district)

Sector: Monument area

Grade: E25c (6b or 5.10c)

Length: 10 meters

Protection: Friend 2 (2x), Friend 2 1/2, big nut + pro for the belay

 

 

 

 

Some history

In 1736 at the age of 11, John Newton joined his father’s ship beginning a life of immorality, debauchery and failure. This led to rejection by his father, trouble with all his employers and finally jail and degradation. However, after a violent storm at see in which he almost lost his life, he came to his senses and gave the rest bof his life to serving God. His testimony is recorded in his famous song: Amazing Grace.